In Timely Fashion--1910: A Year of Elegance and Grace

“Anne surveyed herself in the mirror of the blue room with girlish satisfaction. She had a particularly pretty gown on. Originally it had been only a simple little slip of cream silk with a chiffon overdress. But Phil had insisted on taking it home with her in the Christmas holidays and embroidering tiny rosebuds all over the chiffon. Phil’s fingers were deft , and the result was a dress which was the envy of every Redmond girl.”

~L.M. Montgomery, Anne of the Island

The description of Anne’s airy party dress, simply embellished with delicate, hand-embroidered rosebuds, fills our girlish hearts with delight. The gown is femininity personified and represents the spirit of Edwardian style–simple, lovely and exquisitely lady-like.

The Edwardian era was marked by quickly changing fashions and silhouettes; the large, “puffy” sleeves that Anne so desired gave way to smaller sleeves puffed only at the sleeve head, and soon to the gently flowing sleeves of the 1910's. The heavily boned and fitted bodices of the early period became looser, more delicate, and the waistline gradually started to rise. The skirts, moving from trained, pleated backs to tailored and fitted around the hips, became smaller and shorter as the years passed. These styles, building upon the fashions of earlier years, paved the way for the trends that were to come.

Perhaps one of the first places that we can see changes from the Victorian period to the early 1900's is in the undergarments. Corsets, drawers and corset covers were still used, but the desired silhouette had changed. From the healthy “S-curve” corsets of the Gibson Girls came the straighter, more column-like corsets; often these included shoulder straps, showing how closely they related to the later development of the “brassier”. Corset covers and petticoats were now one, called “combinations”, and a May, 1910 issue of “The Delineator” magazine suggests that new brides will need six of these, along with six pairs of drawers and six nightgowns, for their trousseau.

Dainty, lace-covered bodices were still very much in vogue, though the “waists” became less full. Many ladies still preferred high, lace collars (often boned to maintain shape), but new “pneumonia” dresses with square necklines were slowly being introduced and wide, rounded collars on shirtwaists were also becoming popular. Pin-tucks, lace insertion and gentle gathers adorned these lovely bodices, many of which were made of silk chiffon, gauze, voile and other airy, delicate fabrics. The new “kimono” sleeves was starting to be used more widely and gradually increased in popularity as the years passed.

These waists were often paired with gored, tailored skirts, plain for some and embellished with asymmetrical overskirts, pleated underskirts and lace for others. Though the bodice and skirt combination seems to have remained popular throughout the decades, the newest summer style of 1910 was the Princess, and Semi-Princess seam dress. These were dresses that were either cut out of long, shaped panels (much like our Princess dresses of today) with yoked bodices, or with the side front and back panels seamed at the waist, sewn to shaped center front and back panels. Often, these new dresses were worn with soft or shaped belts to give the appearance of a skirt and bodice combination.

Princess seams were also employed in the very popular tailored jackets and “Russian blouse coats” which were worn over dresses and skirts alike. These jackets often came down below the hip and usually fastened on the left side with large buttons. The “Russian” blouse coats employed the Semi-Princess effect, with a center front panel sewn to gathered side panels. These were often constructed was asymmetrical hemlines (sometimes coming to a point at the center back) and reaching below the knee. They gave the impression of an overdress and were frequently unlined, made out of a light material for summer wear.

Shoes during the 1910's were also changing: high, lace-up boots were still used by many, but new shorter styles were being introduced. These came up to the ankle in the back and closed with buckles, buttons and some lacing and usually had 1 ½ to 2-inch heels. Reminiscent of the French court styles of the 1700's, they were also trimmed with decorative bows and buckles and were the forerunners of the heeled, short boot” styles of the 1920's.

The hairstyles remained in the large, “Gibson Girl” style, though the size was a little smaller than it had been earlier in the period. “Rats” and frames were used to maintain the puffiness of the style and hair pieces (or switches) were sold in many period magazines. Large straw hats trimmed with ribbon, lace, feathers and nets were also quite popular at the time.

As we look at the late Edwardian clothing, we can see quite clearly how it influenced the fashions that came later. The skirts became shorter and fuller and the waists rose and the “Titanic” era was ushered in. The bodices became less fitted, the skirts were pleated and the “Roaring Twenties” were here. But before them all, the Edwardian lady stood: the embodiment of true beauty and grace.

About the Author

Rachel Franklin (21) has been sewing since she was 8 years old, beginning with doll dress repairs and progressing to gradually more complex and difficult projects. At 14, she began sewing for her family's new hobby, Civil War era reenacting, and discovered a passion! She has spent the last 7 years studying and researching authentic 1860's styles and techniques, and always has an idea for a new gown.

In October of 2002, Rachel spent a month apprenticing with Mrs. Jennie Chancey (www.sensibility.com) learning pattern drafting, and the next February she won first prize in the Young Designer's Contest sponsored by Sense and Sensibility patterns. Currently Rachel is working on getting her winning design ready for publication and testing two new Civil War-era patterns she's drafted.

Rachel lives with her parents, Gene and Tina, her nine siblings (of which she is the eldest) and her grandmother on a small, 5-acre farm on the Texas prairie. Her father is the pastor of Grace Covenant Presbyterian Church (www.gcpchurch.org) and her mother a homemaker who homeschools 7 of the younger children. In her spare time, Rachel enjoys running a home-based sewing business (specializing in Civil War-era clothing), knitting, spinning, playing the piano and doing laundry for thirteen people! Contact her at: hcsewing@yahoo.com.

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