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Old Fashions, Everyday!

For Ms. Kara Shallenberg, past-dressing isn't about recreating period fashions to the tee. Her handmade creations, combining whimsy and old-fashioned charm, are entirely practical for her suburban lifestyle.

"It's wonderfully fun to wear something unique and out-of-the-ordinary. If you're not fond of the off-the-rack, cheaply-made, ill-fitting styles of today, dip into the past and choose something feminine, elegant, and unusual."

ITF: Would you mind describing the economic, political and religious climate of your community?

Kara: I live in a large impersonal suburb of a large impersonal city. I am, I suppose, middle-class. I am of mainly English/German origin. I belong to no organized religion and am on the liberal side of politics.

ITF: What is your educational background? If you are married, what does your husband do?

Kara: I was homeschooled; specifically, unschooled until I was a teenager, and then educated through the local Community College. I have an AA degree in Art History. I also enjoyed studying music, German, Latin, literature, and many other subjects. I homeschool my son, Henry, age 9, and I teach piano lessons part-time, a job I really enjoy! My fiancé, Dan, runs a small webhosting company (http://nyip.net ) and also works as a systems administrator for a large, well-known electronics manufacturer. He is not a past-dresser--yet!

Kara tinkering

Kara wears her "Molly" Apron to protect her hand-made tea gown, as she tinkers on a computer.
ITF: What initially inspired your love of past fashions?

When I was 5 or 6 years old I received the box set of the Little House books by Laura Ingalls Wilder. I devoured them and was fascinated by the descriptions of clothing so different from my flared jeans and rainbow-print t-shirts! I used to wear all my skirts at once, one over another, and tie a sash tightly around my waist, to try to be like Laura. I suppose that was the beginning of my interest in past fashions. Around age 10 I acquired a copy of Estelle Ansley Worrell's The Doll Book, a wonderful book for anyone interested in past fashions. I sewed only one or two dolls but spent hours looking at the sketches of fashions from various time periods and reading the descriptions. I think that is when I really started noticing the wonderful variety of historical clothing. As a teenager I began collecting books about historical clothing, and sewed my first "real" historical costume, a Renaissance ensemble for the local Faire.

When I was in my 20s, my grandmother gave me a few vintage patterns that she had lying around, and I made two versions of a 1963 dress: a short skirted, sleeveless one in a cotton batik, and a warmer flannel version for winter. I also designed and made a vintage-inspired wool houndstooth check skirt, long and slim with a kick-pleat. All three of these garments are still a part of my wardrobe.
Kara's updated Regency look At some point in the late 1990s I started reading Jane Austen, and then discovered the BBC/A&E 6-part Pride and Prejudice miniseries. After reading and watching so much Jane I suddenly developed a burning desire for a Regency gown. I bought the Period Impressions 1809 Day Gown pattern and made a lovely gown in a dark-green cotton print. I found it impractical for every-day wear, though, so I shoved it into the back of my closet and wore it only on Halloween.

Last summer, my dear cousin Chloe, also a P&P addict, came to visit, and asked if I'd sew her a Regency dress. I had found www.sensibility.com at some point (I don't remember how or why!) and suggested to her that we buy Jennie's Regency pattern, as it looked a lot nicer than the one I had used. We bought it, made it up for her, and she looked so beautiful in it. I decided to make another Regency dress for myself, but this time modernize it for everyday wear so it wouldn't have to live in the back of my closet. Since it was summer I made a very modernized sleeveless, short, slim-skirted version. Cute, but not beautiful. I next made a longer version, with plain cap sleeves, semi-modern, but still with a lovely old-fashioned look.

Then I bought Jennie's 1910 Tea Gown pattern and Romantic Dress pattern. I realized that both dresses would really look better if worn over the proper underthings, so I decided to make a corset and chemise before making the dresses. I found the 1830s corset on www.koshka-the-cat.com (which I made with 1/4" metal stays instead of cording and busk, and no shoulder straps) and the "Draft your own Chemise" how-to on www.elizabethstewartclark.com. I made a corset and a couple of chemises, and then made two 1910 dresses (midcalf length and no overskirts but otherwise unchanged) and a Romantic dress (midcalf length, less-puffy elbow-length sleeves, invisible zipper closure).

One of Kara's lovely tea gowns in red linen.

Kara's red dress
Kara's Molly apron Kara in the kitchen Inspired by the BBC production of Wives and Daughters, and fearing for the safety of my dresses, I decided to make an apron just like the ones that Molly Gibson wears. I took a good look at several screenshots, tinkered with muslin, and came up with an apron that looks quite a lot like Molly's. I wear it over my lovely dresses so I never have to worry about ruining them while cooking and cleaning (and eating). Don't miss Kara's instructions for recreating Molly's apron!
For the last few months I have been wearing my past fashions almost exclusively. They are modernized enough to be fine every-day wear, yet still graceful and pretty. I feel beautiful in them. I would never have thought that I'd prefer a corset to more modern underthings, but I really do! I am annoyed on the days when my lovely dresses are ready for a wash and I have to wear modern things.

Out shopping, Kara pairs her linen tea gown with her hand-knit sweater, tam and tennis shoes.

Kara shopping Kara shopping
ITF: If you could live in any time or place, when and where would it be? Why? Do you ever imagine people of your acquaintance in a particular era's clothing and wish you could costume everyone appropriately?

Hmm… I'm not sure I'd choose to live permanently in any time but the present. I do enjoy my modern comforts and freedoms! I've always thought that the 1920s would be an exciting time to visit, and the turn of the century also. I'd like to visit Regency England for a while, if I could go as a member of the gentry.

I certainly do wish I could costume everyone around me! While watching Colonial House on PBS recently, I noticed how good the men look in their work clothes: hats, loose breeches, and plain loose shirts. They look quite comfortable, and I'd like to replace all the baggy jeans and tacky slogan t-shirts I see with something as simple and attractive.

ITF: Do you wear off-the-rack repro vintage styles, authentic vintage, or do you sew most of your old fashions?

I sew all my old fashions. I love to customize things according to my taste and comfort!

ITF: Did you sew before you began recreating period clothing and costumes?

Oh yes. I began sewing very young, probably around age 6, mostly doll clothes for my Mandy Doll, but soon clothing for myself. My mother sews, but never really taught me; she supplied me with fabric and patterns, showed me how to use the sewing machine, and let me learn on my own. I made hundreds of dreadful mistakes along the way but learned from them, and am now quite a good seamstress.

ITF: How long do you usually spend working on a vintage-inspired ensemble?

The 1910 dresses go together very quickly: from start to almost-finished in a day or two. Of course, I usually dawdle over the tedious finishing touches and it takes a while before the dress is actually ready to wear! My Romantic dress took about two weeks… I went slowly on that one and did a lot of piping, which slows things up a bit. A chemise goes together in a evening.

ITF: What are a few plans you have for future projects?

I've just received Jennie's Romantic Blouse pattern. I plan to make a short-sleeve version in a sturdy cotton to wear with my favorite skirts. A Romantic Jumper is definitely on the to-do list and a Romantic Blouse will go under it. I may make another Molly Apron soon, too. And I love my 1910 dresses so much that I'll be making another soon, maybe of cotton velveteen.

ITF: Where have you worn your creations? In what activities have you participated while wearing period garb? What percentage of your week do you spend past-dressing? Or, what percentage of your wardrobe is comprised of period-inspired clothing?

Currently I use most of my past fashions for everyday wear (the dresses and vintage-inspired skirts). Of course, my Renaissance ensembles are used only for Faires, but I haven't been to one in years. Lately I spend most of my time in my historical clothing, alternating with a few of my favorite t-shirts and jeans. I probably wear past fashions 6 days out of the week.

ITF: In general, are people you meet in public positive about your manner of dress? Can you relate some comments, questions, or compliments you've received? What is the most outstanding memory you have of past-dressing?

I have never had a negative comment about my unusual clothing. I do choose to slightly modernize my past fashions--no giant gigot sleeves, floor length skirts, wasp-waists, hoops, or bustles--so they don't stand out quite as much as they could, although they are certainly not what "everyone else" is wearing these days! My fiancé loves my old fashioned dresses, and admires my skill in creating them. I've had many strangers give me compliments, often along the lines of "Wow, what a beautiful dress! Did you make it? I love it! It's so much classier than the things you can buy in stores!"

ITF: Why would you encourage others to become involved in past-dressing?

It's wonderfully fun to wear something unique and out-of-the-ordinary. If you're not fond of the off-the-rack, cheaply-made, ill-fitting styles of today, dip into the past and choose something feminine, elegant, and unusual.

Kara's blue tea gown

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