| Past Patterns ~ 1830-1840 Stays (001), view "B" |
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| Jenny-Rose White ~ highly recommended | |
| Techniques
Used: inserting gussets/gores cording runners finishing with binding rolled hems (sleeves) working hand-sewn eyelets / inserting grommets |
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| Comments: This pattern features two stay patterns. The first (A) is for a lightly corded stay from 1840. The second (B) is for a heavily corded stay from 1830. Both patterns are taken from original garments and offer both historic (handsewn) and reproduction (machine) instructions. Typical of Past Patterns, it is nicely printed on tissue paper with good, clear instructions and simple illustrations. Included in this pattern are detailed instructions for the making of a wooden busk, along with short historic notes on all aspects of this type of stay and instructions for all hand stitches/techniques used. I made view B. While not difficult to construct (as foundation garments go), this is by far the most labor intensive garment I have ever made. The cording of the runners is a very time consuming process, as is the marking and sewing of the gussets, the working of the eyelets and the other handwork. The finished product, however, is stunningly beautiful and comfortable to wear. The pattern called for linen and cable cord. I used the cheaper alternatives of muslin, drill and hemp cord. The hemp was a dream to work with and while the muslin/drill worked, linen is probably the ideal for this stay. PS the pictures below were taken after the stays had been worn for a couple of hours. The hemp/drill "softened" a bit from body heat but the stays were still very supportive. |
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