The Teens
circa 1911-1920

Comments:
This dress features a kimono style bodice, an inset, layered skirts and a pleated waistband with a rosette for decoration. (I left off the rosette on mine.) 
I loved this pattern! It's has it's challenges due to the layers and the sheer fabrics but the result is well worth it. The finished product is wonderfully feminine and elegant. 
The kimono style bodice is amazing comfortable and although a toile is necessary, the bodice is pretty easy to fit. I did have a bit of a problem fitting my darts. I cut out a muslin inset and included it in my muslin toile. That helped a lot. It makes it much easier to visualize and fit when your bust is your "problem area".  
My one complaint is that the skirt is very full. I took out some fullness (due to the width of my fabric) but there was still a lot of skirt, more than I wanted. I have to admit that the full skirt is very "girly" though.
I was very impressed with this pattern. Typical of S&S's patterns, it was well drafted and nicely printed on heavy paper with good, clear instructions. S&S also offers helpful on-line instructions and classes for this dress in the Costume Classroom. 

Comments:
This was the pattern for which I searched long and hard the year I graduated from high school. I dreamed for appearing at a special commencement reception, arrayed in a white dress like one my great-grandmother might have worn. Unfortunately, I hadn't found Jennie Chancey's Sensibility.com, nor had she drafted this slightly updated version of a period pattern. My attempts to modify a modern pattern proved disastrous. I gave up on having a white gown for my graduation. Five years later, my sister graduated. I used Mrs. Chancey's pattern to create dresses for my sister and myself.

What I like about this pattern is that, as Mrs. Chancey relates in the instructions, the variations are endless. An old-time shirtwaist style, it features a moderately pigeon-breasted bodice attached to a waistband and slightly gathered skirt. There are three sleeves (puffed with bands, set-in with bands, or straight set-in). Good news for the breastfeeding mother! The becoming style can be made nursing-accessible with side openings, concealed beneath a full front overlay. The instructions also include embroidery patterns and tips for adding lace insertion, as well as suggestions for doing a bodice inset similar to that of the Titanic Tea Gown. (You can see my version below.)

If you use this pattern, don't skip the muslin toile! I went through at least three bodice toiles on each dress. The bodice was drafted for wear with a corset. Although I have an Edwardian corset, I did not want to have to lace up every time I wore the dress. If you want a comfortable modern fit, plan on adding an inch (1") to the side seam at the bust and tapering it down to nothing at the waist. (This will give you two inches (2") ease through the bust.) Or as Mrs. Chancey recommends, make the bodice two sizes larger.

Like Mrs. Chancey, I am not especially fond of the pigeon pouf typical of the Edwardian era. While she took a good three inches (3") off the lower bodice edge on the original pattern, I sill found the pouf too much. To solve this problem, I folded the pattern under half an inch (1/2") at center front. Since I am a 'C' cup size, I then added half an inch (1/2") all the way across the front. It's difficult to explain why this works without a diagram, but basically, I moved the length from the center front to the side fronts to accommodate a fuller bust. The back bodice was slightly long, so I cut off half an inch (1/2") or so at center back, tapering out to nothing at the side seams. If your arms are well-rounded as mine are, you may find you need to raise the crown of the set-in sleeves by 1/2" to 3/4". Again, a muslin toile is imperative!

There were two bloopers caught in first printing, and corrected. See the Oops! page at Sensibility.com (http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/oops.htm) for details.

Once you have fit the bodice toile satisfactorily to your individual shape, I would recommend you cut your own tissue pattern for use another time. You can make all the alterations to the custom-fit pattern, saving you a step.

Not only is this pattern suited for special occasion wear, it looks lovely in simple cotton prints and shirtings. Pair it with the Sense & Sensibility Apron for a day at home! Be watching for a new class at the Costume Classroom on using heirloom sewing techniques to embellish your Afternoon Gown.

Teens Underpinnings

Teens Outerwear

Teens Accessories

These reviews are personal opinions based upon the subjective experience 
of each dressmaker and are not an endorsement by ITF.